Tataouine to Matmata

For all you Star Wars lovers the last week has been like living a dream. Visiting locations across the south of Tunisia I have seen things from Luke Skywalkers home to the Spaceport of Mos Eisley.

Leaving the somewhat washed out island of Jerba off the South East coast of the Tunisian mainland I took a louage to Tataouine, famously known as the home planet of the Skywalker family. A louage is a local transport. Generally a multi-person vehicle taking 8 passengers. They are a cheap method of getting from A to B. They do, however, have their draw backs. Often cramped and, especially in the desert landscapes of the Sahara, can be uncomfortably hot. They also require a full compliment of commuters before they depart for their destinations. In the larger cities and to the larger destinations this is not a problem but in some of the more remote places of Tunisia this often results in long periods of hanging around for more people to arrive.

I was fortunate on this louage to be the final passenger to arrive at the station and we departed immediately and after reaching the mainland we were weaving our way into the Sahara. The terrain of the South of the country is barren to say the least. The only vegetation you see on any scale is olive groves. All across Tunisia you find these vast expanses of trees which are able to cope with the arid climate. Along the way i met a friendly Japanese fellow called Hazimee. He told me of a remote location just outside Tataouine that he was destined for and after a short while I had imposed and joined him on this excursion.

Douiret is about 20 kilometres outside Tataouine, which is really nothing more than a desert township. A tiny little village, called the modern village, is set in the valley below the mountains of the Sahara and the old Douiret is nestled in the upper extremities of the same mountains a few kilometres further into the arse end of nowhere. On top of one of the highest crests, cut into the mountain, is an ancient Berber ruin. Our louage drops us at the bottom of a set of steps that lead into the hillside and as he disappears from view I am beginning to think I have mad a bad choice as the blistering sun beats down upon us and there isn't a sign of life anywhere.

I was, therefore, incredibly relieved when at the top of the steps we were greeted by a man who owned a hotel in part of the ancient settlement. The hotel was a true find, like nowhere i have ever been before and after getting full board accommodation (there wasn't a restaurant or store for more than 25 km) Hazimee and I spent the afternoon exploring the mountainside. It's a truly remarkable feit that anyone could have lived there but the houses carved into the rock are testiment to mans ability to survive and inhabit tough terrains. The hotel, although not actually a part of the set, looked exactly like something from Star Wars.

The following morning was one of the occasions when the louage took a while, 3 hours to be precise - and only then left because I paid for the extra spaces and i was back in Tataouine and making my way to Matmata. At the louage station in Tataouine i ended up having to hire a louage privately, fortunately it was only the equivolent of 10 pounds, and was on my way to the pinnacle of the Star Wars sets - Luke Skywalkers home.

2 louages later and i was in yet another remote desert location. Matmata is really only on the tourists map because of the Sidi Driss hotel which was the famous abode in A New Hope. I stayed a night in the hotel, which in reality was not all it cracked up to be as you felt like part of the attraction as people snap pictures of the dining hall where Luke sucked down a blue milkshake and you are eating your dinner.

Remember that one of my biggest reasons for coming to Africa is to climb Kilimanjaro. I have not forgotten either and I am still training as much as I can. In the 40 degrees heat of the Matmata mountains i decided to go for a run - crazy eh? Well, perhaps, but perhaps not as a i hit the highest peak, around 1000 metres altitude, some four or five kilometres out of town i was rewarded with stunning views right across the desert plains all the way to the sea. It was something quite unique. The looks I got from the locals driving along the deserted hilltop road were also worth the effort.

In my next update you'll  get to see vast desert landscapes, more Star Wars locations and the final leg of Tunisia, Tunis and the Northern territories. TTFN